The second of our ‘Char dhams in 4 years’ trip. We explore the Bhagirathi valley this time and spend time in the idyllic village of Harsil (not far from Tibet border), surrounded from all four sides by snow-covered peaks (a rarity) and the river flowing in a wide bed in between. Gangotri is the site of the temple but the trek to Gaumukh (and beyond) will take us to the true source of the Ganga.